Beautiful beaches, friendly people, nice surf and tasty food - what more can you ask for?
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| Alufaaga blowhole, Savai'i. At high tide sea water is trapped in volcanic caves under pressure and is forced skyward by the incoming waves |
A long way from home
Since I arrived there hasn't been a day without “Where are you from?” questions. In the start I would say Norway, but I soon learned that I could also have said the moon, so I kept saying Europe. I guess you wouldn't know where Samoa is either, if you met a Samoan in Norway! Just to shoot in, the people that have heard of Norway during my travel, and that doesn’t think it’s the capital of Sweden, they know it because of our famous salmon! That being the taxi driver in Malaysia, the Japanese tourist on Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo , the backpacker from South Korea, or the Australian surfer. No one know we are doing oil though. Sorry guys, Norway isn’t very known outside Europe, even though we like to think it is.
Well, Norway aside, it didn't take long to learn that the Samoan people is some of the friendliest people on this planet! People would stop you on the street, shake your hand and ask where you are from. Everybody waves at you and some may shout “Hey palagi!” (means Hey foreigner/white person!). I received a LOT of questions about what on earth I was doing here and so far from home.
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| First day at Samoa, Apia in the background |
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| A traditional Fale |
Squeeze one more in!
The Samoan culture isn’t always easy to understand, and especially not when a taking bus! Being a foreigner you are subject to a lot of confusion and laugh.
To stop a bus you have to wave your arm with the palm down. To get off you either clap your hands or pull the cord, if any. Well, first you need to get going. The buses will only leave when they are full and waiting two hours isn’t uncommon. But this doesn’t mean you are off, the driver might take a round around the city to see if there are any more people. If there is too few people the driver might cancel the whole trip! Traveling in Samoa can be a challenge for the impatient!
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| Bus at the bus station in Apia (capital) |
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| Now, ain't that a cool bus? |
As that wasn’t enough, Samoan buses have a seating hierarchy, and there is a great deal of amusement from observing how the Samoans seat and stack themselves. Unmarried women normally sit together. Foreigners and older people must have a seat and sit near the front of the bus. When all seats are full (which happens quite often(!), or a young woman boards and there is no other woman to sit with), people begin stacking up. Woman sit on laps of women, men on men and sometimes they are stacked up to four high! Of course the aisle is full of people too. Quite a difference to back home where you would be a weirdo if you talk to anyone on the bus!If someone in the rear of the bus is blocked by those seated, everyone systematically files off the bus, lets them off, and reboards without a word. I've been on buses where I have almost sit on top of the driver, people have been sitting on my lap, and people have been hanging out the doors! A seat with five people in it is more a rule than not. To top it all the buses doesn't have any suspension and the wooden benches doesn't offer much comfort. The air condition is done the natural way - no windows! I know it sounds a bit crazy, but the colorful buses and the unique experience is all worth it! Why take an expensive cab? Did I mention they all play Samoan pop music too? Malo oka le o le oka oke le o le.... yep!
One for all, all for one...
The samoan culture is quite different from what I have experienced elsewhere. While in the Western world it's all about the "I", in Samoa it's all about "We". This means sharing and borrowing is normal. In example a Coka Cola will be shared around the bus. Each Samoan is part of an 'Aiga, which is translated to something like an extended family. Each member of the 'aiga will work to make it stronger and more wealthy. In theory, all wealth and property is owned communally by caring, sharing 'aiga and decisions about these matters are always made by the matai, the chief of the village. Being a matai is well respected and in the old days they would go to war over such a title! Before you think the local people live in straw huts and practice cannibalism I can tell you they live quite a modern life today
“Samoa is founded on God”
Says a building in Apia. Well, "thanks" to the missionaries the Samoans is now maybe the most religious people I ever met! They do take their Christianity serious! Everybody goes to the church on Sundays (even twice!) and each village got their own church! It's an intense competition to have the most impressive church and family abroad will send money back to their families and village in order to support the common wealth. While Sundays back home is a day off for most people, in Samoa it’s the day of rest. Maybe a bit like Norway in the old days? This means no activities (and no suring for visitors!) and the island seems to stop. Not the best day to do traveling too (trust me, I have tried!). I even read that one tourist ended up in hospital after refusing to stop jogging! The Samoans do four things on Sundays. Church, eat, rest and swim. The Samoans love to sing (anywhere!) and apparently Samoans got some of the best gospel in the world.
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| One of many churces in Samoa |
Living the traditional way
Samoa is fairly undeveloped by comparison to other countries when it comes to tourism. Music in my ears! You won't find any big holiday complex with a theme park nearby, but there are some neat resorts that blends into the nature. I guess you can use a lot of money to stay in a nice suite, but why not stay in a fale, the traditional way of living?
A fale is a bit like a bungalow, but totally open and often located right on the beach. There's is no doors, windows, air-con or fans. Only palm blinds that can be lowered to offer some privacy, a thin mattress and a mosquito net! I guess your first thought is whether that is safe? Well, obviously you don’t leave any valuables left, but I never heard of anyone that had any problems. I would think theft would rather be from another traveler than a Samoan.
The thin mattress doesn't offer too much comfort, but the breeze of the wind and the sounds of the pounding waves makes up for it. I don't need more! (well maybe a beer).
One day when I stayed in my fale on Satuiatua on Savai’i island there were two Humpback whales that where splashing just 200 meters off shore! Accompanied by a beautiful sunset (and a beer) on the most westerly island in the world it was a bit like a dream!
‘Upolu
Samoa consist of two main island. ‘Upolu and Savai’i, respectively 1115km2 and 1813km2. I arrived ‘Upolu in the middle of the night and got a taxi to a guesthouse just outside Apia, the capital of Samoa. I have to say, it’s nice to be back in a warm country - New Zealand was freezing cold! Samoa is just on
the other side of the date line and I got a bit confused about the dates (not the only one though!). I flew on the 2nd of August and I thought it was the 3rd when I arrived after midnight (I wrote 3rd on the arrival card!). However it turned out it was the 1st of August and the day before yesterday. Hehe confused yourself?
Well, I spent the irst day in Apia. Not too interesting, but OK enough and easily explored in one day. The next day I took the bus to Maninoa on the south coast where I ended up at Maninoa surf camp where I stayed the next week. I have to say it's sometimes nice to get a bit of holiday from the traveling. I guess this sounds strange for you guys back home, but traveling can be a bit exhausting. It's quite different from a holiday and I guess it sounds a bit strange when I say it's almost like a job. Living in a rucksack, a new bed every night, no clean clothes, new people all the time and you're often out all day exploring. Sometimes it's really nice just to get a place and spend some days there and do nothing. Don't get me wrong, I’m not complaining, but the longer you travel the more it becomes a lifestyle and like anything else. You have good days, bad days, boring days, days you just wanna be alone, days that go fast and days that go slow, days you miss some good company and days you miss home and your friends! It’s quite different from the first three months when I was really excited just to be doing what I have dreamt of so long! Well well, getting a bit sentimental here I guess, but it's kinda hard to explain if you haven't experienced yourself. Love it though. Lets continue with the travel letter!
I immediately liked the place and the atmosphere at the surf camp so I kept staying "only one day more" for a lot of days. I went out suring on the reef and I also got the opportunity to explore the entire island with two of my fale neighbors. I even got the nickname "The Chess Terminator" hehe. Watch out dad! Getting around the island is best done with a car, but this was an expensive option to do alone. Brandon and Emma was kind enough to take me along for free! Thanks a lot B&E! I owe you one!
There is a lot to see on ‘Upolu. Beautiful waterfalls, lava formations, blowhole and postcard beaches, but one of the big attractions is the Sua ocean trench. The trench consists of a pair of huge sunken waterholes connected by a short rocky tunnel, all of it swept by an ocean current that enters through an underwater passageway. A truly special experience to swim around inside the pool, but a rather vertical climb down to it! We had a look at the underwater passage, but decided it was too dangerous to swim through. The currents were strong and it seemed like a fair bit of swimming before you reach the ocean! However the locals would say it's quite easy. Another magical experience is to swim in the Piula cave pool. The freshwater pool is separated from the salt water by black lava rock and has the bluest water I have ever seen! The cave continues for about 30 meters and at the (dark) end there is a tiny three meter passage at the bottom to another cave which you can swim into. Pretty cool! The pool itself is not big, but there is so many fishes. When you are inside the cave and look out under water the water is so clear and blue and you can see all the fishes swimming around. Too bad I don't have an underwater camera! On top of the cave there is built a church. A nice and refreshing swim on a hot day! Another special thing is the Black Sand Beach. As the name suggest the sand on this beach is all black! The black sand is lava rock! The only problem is, you get really dirty!
When you look on the map these islands doesn’t look very big, and they aren’t, but still it takes at least two days to get around the island in a steady pace. I have to say, I wonder how on earth somebody
found these islands 3000 years ago when you see how small they are compared to the wast Pacific ocean! Must have been a lot of explorers that didn’t find else than... well... ocean! The researchers believe that the early settlers came form South East Asia and not from South America as Thor Heyerdahl suggested and tried to prove with his Kon-Tiki expedition. The first European contact was in 1722, but the first few settlers came in the 1820’s. Most of them escaped convicts and retired whalers. A lot of interesting history when it comes to the Pacific islands! A tip is An Account of the Natives of the Tonga Islands. The story of William Mariner (15) who arrived Tonga on the English
privateer Port-au-Prince in 1806. The crew were massacred, but young William was spared and taken under the wing of chief Finau ‘Ulukalala who believed he was some sort of young chief back home. He lived with the Tongans for four years and is a unique account of the life, culture and religion in Tonga before Christianity arrived.
"O lo’u igoa o Oyvind"
To surf or not to surf, that’s the question...
The surf in Samoa can be world class, but not for beginners due to the shallow reefs. However I convinced Tim that I was a descent windsurfer and snowboarder and that I could try the smaller surf. He lent me one of his short boards and off we went! The first day I was trying some of the smaller surf on the edge of the break, but it was quite hard and the waves were tricky.
The next day we went to another spot where the waves were even bigger. I decided to stay in the boat (anchored on the edge of the reef) to take some photos and watch the other guys. Every five minute there would be some really big swells that came in. I decided to give it a try, but take it easy, don't get into the zone and try to catch some of the shoulders of the surf. I did almost get some waves, but it’s quite hard and I'm still struggling to get up on the board.
Before I knew it I was in the middle of the zone and, according to the other guys, the biggest wave of the day came rolling in. SHIT SHIT SHIT I was thinking as I faced the monster rising above me and I knew I wouldn't be able to surf it! So I went to duck under it... well, that was my idea at least. Having managed to duck under some other waves this one just ripped me apart. My board lew out of my hands and banged me in the head and for what seemed like and eternity I was rolled around inside the wave short of breath. I didn't knew what was up or down and the strength of the wave was so strong that I could do nothing at all, but wait. I was just waiting for being brushed on the shallow coral reef sharp as razor blades! I was almost out of breath when I kicked my feet down, hit the coral reef and got to the surface gasping for aaaaaaiirrr... I found my surf board and got on it just before the next wall of foamy water came. This time I was just pushed gently over the reef to calmer water. My head was aching and I believed my feet must be all cut from stepping on the corals.
Luckily it turned out that I hadn't got a scratch at all and got away with the scary experience. So lesson learned, learn to surf and duck before suring in Samoa! Well, it was fun all together, but too difficult for a beginner. I did learn a lot though from the guys who were eager to teach me, so I'm eager to try in easier conditions and on a bigger board!
Beautiful sunsets, Humpback whales and postcard beaches
It’s an one hour ferry ride over to Savai’i and I’ve never been on a more packed ferry! When you think they can’t get even a pig on - they squeeze a lorry in! People sleeping under cars, hanging in ladders
and squeezing in between all the cars. Some are lucky to be able to sit and others like me had to stand for the entire trip. I did befriend the wheel of the lorry. Life-vests? Haha. The trip over the Apolima strait receive some braving swell and waves are splashing everyone close to the railing. On the ferry I met Aaron from the surf camp and together we went to Aginoa surf camp on the south coast. It was quite expensive to stay there so I only spent one night here. However we got to see the Afu Auu falls. Well, the fall was actually dry when we visited, but a beautiful pool offered a nice swim.
The next day I went alone to see the blowholes and moved further up the coast. I got a lift to the blowholes (getting a lift is how you get around here!) and they were awesome! The blowholes on ‘Upolu island didn’t offer much action, but these blowholes had plenty! Trapped sea water in volcanic caves is forced sky high when the huge swells hit the rough coast line. I must have been there on a big day, because it was really shooting! Not only the blowholes, but huge freak waves were pounding the coast. Some of them splashing more than 50 meters inland! I didn’t have the nerve to get close to the holes, but supposedly they can shoot coconuts 60 meters high! Fire in the hole - incoming coconuts! Hehe.
I ended up at Satuitua on the west coast after a rather full bus ride. The buses doesn’t have any luggage room so it’s not always easy to be a backpacker with a big rucksack on a Samoan bus! Satuitua Beach Fales turned out to be the best place I stayed in entire Samoa! Beautiful beach, very nice (& simple!) fales and superb food!
An immature coconut taste the best!
I had plans of moving on the next day, but the chef made me think otherwise. Mmm fish in coco-
nut! I wanna go back!
Respect the locals!
Well, I stayed there two nights and met a Swedish couple
that I traveled with the next days. They had been together five months and been apart four of them and remind me to never travel with such a combination again!!! Kissy kissy kiss. Hey come on guys! I’m here too! Hehe. Well, we shared the expenses of renting a car, and as soon as we were finished I traveled in a completely different direction. They just an- oyed me too much. Not because of their af-
fections, but the lack of respect for the locals. In Samoa you are not supposed to show feelings in public and you are supposed to dress appropriate too, especially girls. This means knee long pants, and a bikini size shorts didn’t impress the locals. Do that back home and don’t embarrass yourself and others! And hey guys, you’re fale isn’t very sound proof!
Anyway a car is the way to get around if you don’t have a LOT of time. The buses are few and they don’t travel all the parts of the island.
The dwarf cave is the home of a tribe of dwarfs with magic abilities if you believe the legend. Having seen some amazing caves in Laos and Borneo this wasn’t the most thrilling thing I have seen, but fun to explore an old lava tube!
Did you know Savai’i is the most western island in the world? Neither did I and when I learned this I just had to get to the westernmost point of land in the world, also known as Cape Mulinu’u. Not spectacular itself, but the only place where you can see tomorrow, and fun to have been there! It’s twelve hour difference to GMT (Noway is GMT+1). I’d love to see the sunset here, but I couldn’t bother to wait for it. I did loose my lippers to the sea. That’s my second pair of slippers I’ve lost in
Samoa. And yes, just discovered today as I’m writing this I’ve also lost all my underwear and socks! Not critical on a tropical island, but gotta get some before heading off to USA! Maybe someone borrowed it?
I had also plans to visit the Mativanu crater and the famous ‘Da Craterman’ (local guide), but unfortunately I arrived there to late. Supposed to be very beautiful. Last eruption was in 1905 and 1911 and I think the island is still categorized as active. Well, I did meet Da Craterman and got his card. 97 countries has visited the crater and I’m sure Da Craterman will have a big party when he reach 100! Regret I didn’t take any photos of him, but he looks exactly how you think a bush man
would look. Next time!
SUM IT UP - Samoa in a nutshell
Samoa has been a nice experience all in all, but I could easily have done the islands in two weeks rather than almost three! There’s not too much to do when you have seen most of the things and the last days I went to Apia just to chill and write this travel report. I’ve become a regular guest to Spy Club which is pretty much the only bar/pub/club in town and opens at 9pm and close at 12pm. Not too much else to do around. I’m trying to beat the locals in pool, but they ‘re damn good!
Next week the South Pacific Games starts the 25th. Too bad I can’t be around. Didn’t know about it before I came here and I’m sure it will be a blast! But after what I have heard every fale, guesthouse, and school is booked out, so I guess it would be quite hard to ind accommodation. Rugby is the big thing over here and I think they’re as serious about rugby as Englishmen are about their football!
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